These photos treat wipeouts not simply as comic or alarming, but as an expression of human courage, a willingness to risk danger for the chance of achievement.
The wipeout is implicit in every attempt at riding a wave.
The wipeout is symbolic of life in general.
The photos explore the dynamic interaction between the human mind and body and the elements of wind and water.
Most were taken soon after dawn, on a unique October day in 30mph winds with 6-8ft surf.
© Paul Harrison